[video:3279188 100x100] There's no way around it. There's no other way to say it. To avoid the idea that elements on Broad Peak can outmatch any human is simple arrogance (or denial), so I won't hesitate to admit our (at least momentary) defeat. High winds - at times easily more than 100km/h - and temperatures below minus -35C, added to this, endless sheets of continuous, monotonous, bulletproof ice, were the tools of our challenger, and the challenger outmatched us - the final blow being the collapse of our tent (see video in the next dispatch, coming soon) at Camp 3 (aprox. 7000 meters), an elevation at which this mountain seems intent to impede our progress.

But this is 8000 meter winter expedition climbing. What else could we expect? In my opinion, this last foray up the mountain was not a carefully designed trip around a clear weather window, but rather an open attempt to face the worst the mountain could throw, hoping it would be kind and give us reprieve. My initial suggestion was that we not do this in the first place, and now it is my firm conviction that we not try this again. I feel like a child, warned not to touch the oven, left with a little sting to remind us why: The mountain let me off easy, with some minor "frostnip" on my nose and cheek, in addition to an increasing numbness already resident on all my fingertips and toes. Qadrat didn't fare so well, with frostbite to 5 fingers, one in particular is a little serious -  but, none is serious enough that he will lose anything, so he is fortunate as well. Robert suffered a small patch of a frostnip on his cheek. The rest managed to escape with little more than a bitter scolding.

The ascent to Camp 2 - on Friday the 13th, mind you- should have been the first indicator. Winds at the elevation of "Summer" Camp 2 forced Qadrat, Ali, Amin, and I to fall prostrate every few minutes, hugging every available rock to avoid flight. I was only able to film twice: once behind a rock for a few seconds until my hands froze, and once for a few seconds during the full force of the winds at "Summer" Camp 2, aprox. 6200 meters. In the latter clip, you'll notice the white frozen patch on my nose. Our goggles were completely iced over at this point, and useless. 

High winds to Camp 2 from Calpinist.com on Vimeo.
When the four of us finally reached "winter" Camp 2 at around 3:30pm, the full force of the gale was upon us. To our dismay, both tents had been demolished by the winds, and we had no place to take cover. In the force of the wind it was hard to breathe, and communication was possible only by shouting in each other's ear. It took over 2 hours of creative engineering, various rigging, and forced ingenuity to make one of the two tents inhabitable, using spare parts from the unsalvageable tent, and taking adequate breaks to pull our hands inside our mitts to save our fingers. At around 6:15pm, the four of us finally poured into the tent and tried to warm and encourage each other, laughing and shaking our heads at just how bad the conditions outside were.

Just before 7pm Artur arrived, followed shortly by Robert. The six of us were now crammed in a tent made for three people - so, pretty tight quarters, but the close body contact gave some residual warmth. I had the Jetboil fired and soon began serving up tea, while a few of the others melted ice for soup and drinks. The night would prove to be a rather uncomfortable one, to say the least. Once in position, each member was completely unable to move for the night, imprisoned by a pretzel of knees, elbows and frozen nylon - a sadistic form of the game Twister, played inside a meat locker, inside a wind tunnel, in the middle of O'Hare airport runway, in record setting winter. Robert and I shared the right hand side of the tent, the snow crystals blasting through the door zipper, turning the left side of my down suit into a frozen, powdered donut. To say the least, the night sucked for everyone. The only consolation is that Taqi's knee was bothering him a little and he turned to go down below Camp 1, thereby reducing the number of sardines by one.

On Saturday, Feb 14th, the winds abated a little, at first, then started again in the afternoon. Although slightly lower winds than the previous day, climbing to Camp 3 in these conditions was certainly less than advisable, so we sat tight. Sometime during the morning, a conversation took place which resulted in Ali and Artur setting up a small (emphasis on small) Vaude tent to give us some space to breathe, but this only reduced our number by one. Meanwhile, Amin began an impressive display of super-strength: he would descend to base camp and return to Camp 3 with another tent the following day - a vertical gain of over 2000 meters.

Next Dispatch- Camp 3, High Winds, and the Gear Burrito that Ate My Harness.

Don and the team are  safe in base camp. They had to abort their summit bid due to severe weather conditions and other circumstances. Dispatch from Don to follow soon.

I would like to personally send my congratulations to both Simone and Denis for their incredible accomplishment of summiting Makalu in winter. All of us here at base camp were cheering you guys along, and celebrated with shouts and applauses when we received the news. Finally, the last 8000 meter peak of Nepal has been climbed in winter. We are proud of you both!!

The team toasts Simone and Denis photo Don Bowie

In two days we will again attempt to push camp 3 higher, and if the weather forecast holds for a few days, maybe we will try for the summit. Perhaps some of the good fortune from Makalu will shine on us.

 

 "...They charged straight at the foot of the hill and then found themselves running up it almost as water from a broken wave runs up a rock out at the point of some bay. Though the slope was nearly as steep as the roof of a house and the grass as smooth as a bowling green, no one slipped. Only when they had reached the very top did they slow up; that was because they found themselves facing great golden gates. And for a moment none of them was bold enough to try if the gates would open.. They all felt just as they had about the fruit - 'Dare we? Is it right? Can it be meant for us?'..."

C.S. Lewis, from The Last Battle

  

<Broad Peak under moonlight photo Don Bowie>

 

 Phone Dispatch from Don: (02/09/09, 11 am PKT)

"I specifically wanted to call to extend my best wishes to Simone (Moro, Italian) and Denis (Urubko, Kazakhstan) (who are at this time making their summit push on Makalu in the Himalayas).  We wanted you both to know that all of our team here on Broad Peak have been following you and are cheering you on, rooting for a successful summit and safe return to base camp."

From Don's Support Team: "Simone & Denis, we wanted you to know that  we have also been following you and are praying for your successful summit and safe journey back to base camp.