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BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008

THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".

THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years.
Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More...

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Three climbers at 6500 - "Denis, Don and...!" by The Web Team

(9:30 AM – Nepal Time) Lena from RussianClimb reported: "I've just talked with Serguey Bogomolov. I heared him very clearly. He and Robert, the Polish medical doctor, are in C2. "Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2. Other rescuers are going up to C2." Serguey sees three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. "Alexey decided to join the rescuers, and to help bring oxygen bottles to C3." In that moment Denis turned on his radio. I listened in: "Hello, Serguey…! We're OK, but very tired... very heavy snow... I think, we'll reach C3 in 2-3 hours..." I listened as Denis breathed very hard... Bolotov is incredible!”

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Determined to try for Camp 4 by The Web Team
(4:30 AM - Nepal Time) Don called to report: "We arrived at Camp 2 at around 2 AM. After taking a couple of hours to rest and re-hydrate we are now preparing to head up the wall to C3." Sounding tired he emphasized "We are determined to try for camp 4 in the next push."
Untagged  22 May 2008 2:00 AM
Don and Denis Urubko are on the mountain by The Web Team

Pablo Ochoa de Olza reports "Don and Denis are between C1 and C2, going up like rockets and will reach Inaki sometime in the next 24 hours." They are climbing with a Nepalese Sherpa, carrying O2 for Inaki and additional high altitude gear for Ueli. They spent 8 hours rapidly gaining elevation in deep snow that hampered their ascent. They hope to reach Inaki and Ueli tomorrow.

 

Kaldo Aldaz the cheif coordinator of the rescue efforts soberly commented: "They (Don and Denis together with Ueli) would not be enough to bring Inaki down.  The rescue effort will need as many as possible to get as high as possible and as fast as possible."

 

Tomorrow the weather forecast is perfect, especially in the morning. 06:00 Nepal time or earlier, a third rescue team should arrive on the mountain. They comprise 1 Polish Doctor, 5 Nepalese who are climbing Sherpas, and 2 Romanian climbers. With them they have a pressure bag, O2 and additional medicines for all. They will fly to C1 or C2 weather permitting.

Untagged  22 May 2008 2:00 AM
Swiss climbers reach Horia and Inaki by The Web Team

Horia who has risked his life and health for his friend and climbing partner Inaki, is now safe at Camp 3 together with Swiss climber Simon. Although not being in great condition because of being at high altitude for so long he as managed to get down to C3 alone. Tomorrow Horia and Simon descend to Base Camp. Alexey who is either at C3 or C2 should also reach Base camp.

 

Inaki is sleeping quietly at 7400m. The Swiss climber Ueli is with him, keeping him alive, giving him Dexa and other medical assistance. Inaki's health condition is static although his breathing is becoming ashmatic. Inaki is going to need O2 quickly. Time is vital. He can drink but can not walk neither can he talk. Ueli is awaiting Don and Dennis Urbuko's arrival with O2 and other medical supplies.

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