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BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008

THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".

THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years.
Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More...

Untagged  16 May 2008 2:00 AM
A well deserved soak by The Web Team

(12:25 AM - Nepal Time) Talking from Bamboo en route to Jinhu Danda where natural hot springs await, "I have left Base Camp. Dan is a day behind me. We'll meet for a little R& R in Jinhu. I'm looking forward to the change from the snow and cold to a well deserved soak." Don will then travel on to Katmandu via Pokhara.

 

Don has about 12 days before another climbing expedition begins. Wait for more details to be posted.

Untagged  15 May 2008 2:00 AM
Best wishes (Satellite Phone Dispatch) by The Web Team

(9:05 PM - Nepal Time) “While descending, mid-way between Camp 2 and Camp 1, we crossed the paths of Inaki and Horia who had teamed up with Alexei Bolotov. Alexi is the Russian climber that I so enjoyed climbing the South Face with. Just a week earlier he  had reached the top of Annapurna East.

 

As we parted company - Inaki and co. headed up, Dan and I heading down - I expressed my best wishes to the three of them; for their ascent, summit bid and for their safe return. I will continue to hope for their success. It was mid afternoon when we finally arrived back in Base Camp, this time with heavier packs. Earlier we had stopped to retrieve the  last of our gear from Camp 1.”

Untagged  15 May 2008 2:00 AM
Here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition by The Web Team
 (6:45 AM - Nepal Time) While sitting at Camp 2 and looking toward the South Face, Don expressed "The mountain before me looms even bigger than before. In spite of being up for the challenge as well as feeling physically strong, the probability of me solo summiting this route is very low. The possibility for success is even lower under the current blanket of fresh heavy snow. Taking this into consideration, here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition! Let's just pray that Dan and I get down to Base Camp without incident."
Untagged  13 May 2008 2:00 AM
Sitting Tight At Camp 2 (Satellite Phone Dispatch) by The Web Team
  (8:50 AM - Nepal Time) A perfectly still night spent at Camp 2 was punctuated by roars of avalanches.  As for yesterday: The going was a little tough in poor conditions. Very soft snow on the ground with heavy loads made for slow progress. We arrived at camp around 1 pm. Again, I felt strong and thankful that I'm already acclimatized for a higher altitude. Our packs are beefed up as we need more than a weeks worth of supplies. The plan is Dan would hold the fort here at Camp 2 and I would go solo, taking the same line that I climbed together with the Russian team.  My only reservation is the amount of avalanche activity. With the occasional break in the clouds we've glimpsed their expanse following what appears to be my intended climbing route. With the forecast of more snow we will sit tight and wait the day out. Let's see what tomorrow brings.

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