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Untagged  30 Oct 2008 1:00 AM
The Junk Show… by Don Bowie

Many people have recently contacted me with inquiries about the food and gear I use on expeditions, with questions like; “What is your sleeping bag rated at?”, and “What do you eat up there?”, and “How do you guys take a …?” (You get it.)

In truth, expeditions to big mountains like K2 are gear intensive, but so are many weekend adventures here in North America. Combine that with the mountaineer’s propensity to curate gear like the Vatican does artifact, and closets like mine turn into a veritable junk show.

 

 

When considering gear, equipment, and the staples of any climbing endeavor, caution must be observed to not let our “things” replace our “abilities”, elevating confidence by what we have, rather than who we are. Smart marketing campaigns often prey upon this tendency, promulgating that if we simply purchase the latest gadget or gnaw the latest lockjaw energy bar, we can conquer anything. Even the crisp, wilderness air cannot escape the flatulence of consumerism.

However, having pardoned ourselves from the aforementioned al fresco faux pas, mountaineering and climbing are genuinely safer and easier due to advances in food and gear technology. When correctly matched with our limitations, these advances unquestionably extend the limits of what is possible. I couldn’t imagine wearing wool knickers and pith helmets like Mallory and Irvine did on Everest, or to sleep in a 10 pound felt sleeping bag like Buhl on Nanga Parbat. (Although, The Duke of Abruzzi’s four-poster wooden bed does sounds comfy cool.)

Over the next few months I will periodically post gear reviews for things like mountain food, down products, tents, and technical equipment, pillaged from my own personal gear stash. Ergo, I introduce the Gear/Nutrition page on my website, in full knowledge that anyone who knows me knows that the word “nutrition” and myself rarely collide in the same sentence. Nonetheless, I now share with you the stuff I like to use, why I use it, and where to get it. Alas, welcome to my own personal junk show: Gear Reviews

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Peak 6150Distaghil Sar 10 Jul 2008 2:00 AM
Don & Bruce on the Summit of P.6150 as reported to Don's Support Team by The Web Team
Don Climbing one of the many seracs on the ridge to Peak 6150
On July 4th, Bruce and Don finally reached the summit of P.6150, the key to accessing the basin and continuing the approach to the North Ridge of Distaghil Sar. On the summit, the pair set up camp and recorded elevation via GPS as 6247 meters (20,495ft). This is the second time the summit of this peak was reached since Bruce first ascended it in 1999. Don & Bruce reported that climbing conditions on the once (relatively) easy ridge have since become considerably more complex due to cornices, seracs, and crevasses.
Don at 6135, below the last ice wall on Peak 6150
Snow conditions during the ascent were deep and unstable after the previous week's snowfall, further complicating the climbing. According to Bruce, "...from the summit the outlook was grim. Clearly, serious transformations had taken place to the entire northern aspect of Distaghil Sar and the basin below Yazghil Domes." Despite these observations, on July 5th Bruce and Don descended into the heavily crevassed basin toward the ridge, while Ben and Pete climbed to P.6150 and set up camp on the summit. More to follow soon...
videoannapurna 8 Jul 2008 2:00 AM
Daniel Baas Documents Recent Annapurna Expedition: Part 3 - Base Camp Life by The Web Team



Purchase Annapurna 2008 Expedittion shirts here.
videoannapurna 8 Jul 2008 2:00 AM
Daniel Baas Documents Recent Annapurna Expedition: Part 2 - Trek to base camp by The Web Team


Don and company trek to the base camp of Annapurna1.
Purchase Annapurna 2008 Expedittion shirts here.
Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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