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THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)

Untagged  8 Jan 2009 12:00 AM
Camp 3: Phone dispatch from 7000 meters by Webteam

(The team left base camp on 01/05/09 to overnight in Camp 1 and then climbed to Camp 2 at 6300 meters to overnight on 01/06/09.)

(11am 01/08/09 Pakistan time) "We reached 7000 meters and decided to set up Camp 3 even though it is a little below what we had planned. The weather was worse than we had anticipated. There was more precipitation than we had expected and the winds were blowing consistently at 40 km/hr with gusts up to 50 km/hr. These winds don't seem like much, but when you combine them with the cold temperatures, it is pretty brutal. You get cold really fast." (The predicted temperatures for 01/07/09  between 6300 m & 7000 m were: maximum -35C =
-31F, minimum -30C =  -22F,  factoring in  the wind chill would be approx.
-47C  = -52F.)

"The winds last night were really strong at times, but we were using one of Artur's HiMountain tents and it held really well. We didn't even tie it down because we were in such a rush to get inside of it. It was a long night!"

"Right now we are just cooking, and getting things prepared so we can leave a depot here. Then we will head down to base camp.  Artur, Robert, and I send our greetings to everyone."

 

Untagged  5 Jan 2009 12:00 AM
On the way to Camp 2 by Webteam

On the way to Camp 2 from Calpinist.com on Vimeo.
Untagged  3 Jan 2009 4:02 AM
At Camp 2 filmed by Artur Hajzer by Don Bowie

At Camp 2 from Calpinist.com on Vimeo.
Broad Peak Winter 2008 1 Jan 2009 12:00 AM
Camp 2: Phone Dispatch from Don by Webteam

(9:30 pm Pakistan Time) "Happy New Year greetings to all my family, friends, and supporters. We are back in base camp now, but we spent last night at Camp 2 at 6300 meters, temperature -35C. "

 
Donus Bowius, Luke Hajzer-Walker czwarty, Rob Vader
picture by Artur Hajzur

Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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