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THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)

Untagged  15 May 2008 2:00 AM
Here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition by The Web Team
 (6:45 AM - Nepal Time) While sitting at Camp 2 and looking toward the South Face, Don expressed "The mountain before me looms even bigger than before. In spite of being up for the challenge as well as feeling physically strong, the probability of me solo summiting this route is very low. The possibility for success is even lower under the current blanket of fresh heavy snow. Taking this into consideration, here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition! Let's just pray that Dan and I get down to Base Camp without incident."
Untagged  13 May 2008 2:00 AM
Sitting Tight At Camp 2 (Satellite Phone Dispatch) by The Web Team
  (8:50 AM - Nepal Time) A perfectly still night spent at Camp 2 was punctuated by roars of avalanches.  As for yesterday: The going was a little tough in poor conditions. Very soft snow on the ground with heavy loads made for slow progress. We arrived at camp around 1 pm. Again, I felt strong and thankful that I'm already acclimatized for a higher altitude. Our packs are beefed up as we need more than a weeks worth of supplies. The plan is Dan would hold the fort here at Camp 2 and I would go solo, taking the same line that I climbed together with the Russian team.  My only reservation is the amount of avalanche activity. With the occasional break in the clouds we've glimpsed their expanse following what appears to be my intended climbing route. With the forecast of more snow we will sit tight and wait the day out. Let's see what tomorrow brings.
Untagged  12 May 2008 2:00 AM
Settling in at Camp 1 (Satellite Phone Dispatch) by The Web Team

(9:08 PM - Nepal Time) Dan & I are at Camp 1. The last of the Russian team passed us on their way down. They are tired but in good spirits. Climbing was done in overcast conditions with light snow. There has been no wind. It appears as though a light system has stalled over us. Earlier we enjoyed dinner. Presently we're boiling water before turning in for the night. Tomorrow we continue to Camp 2.

Untagged  7 May 2008 2:00 AM
A Less Than Favorable Window (Dispatch: Don's Support Team) by The Web Team
Don was glad to report that after his climb with the Russians he had acclimatized and was now back in sync with his partners, Inaki and Horia. After a couple of days rest in Base Camp they once again began climbing together. They set out on May 3rd and eventually arrived in Camp 2 the following day. Daily clouds blanketed Annapurna 1 with frequent snow showers and moderate winds. Don believed the weather was deteriorating and the accumulating snowfall would make for difficult climbing, especially on the wall. Inaki called the Meteotest Mountain Weather forecaster on behalf of the team to determine if there was a weather window favorable for summiting. Meteotest informed him of the weather forecast. Don concluded from this feedback that "pushing for the summit over the next days was not advisable." A discussion ensued as to whether to continue their summit bid. Three different opinions emerged. Based on the information from Meteotest and the prevailing conditions, Don felt strongly that the wisest thing was to return to base camp and wait for a more favorable weather window. Horia insisted on continuing their push for the summit. All three returned to base camp on May 5th. Shortly thereafter, Horia and Inaki decided to part ways with Don and climb on their own. The twosome has since returned up the mountain. Don is currently awaiting suitable conditions before he resumes climbing Annapurna 1. Based on the likelihood of avalanches and even bigger amounts of snowfall that are forecast this weekend, Don intends to stay on at base camp. He feels that the weather looks more promising for climbing early this coming week. He’ll keep you posted as he formulates his plans to make another summit bid.
Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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