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THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)
Archive >> May 2008

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
What next? by The Web Team
Priorities turn to those who are on the mountain. Weather conditions are described as rather rough. Snow is falling on the upper sections. In addition to excessive snow, the south face of Annapurna is wrapped in a thick fog, and visibility is poor.

 

Don and Denis have retreated to C3, where they will await Ueli's descent in the morning.

 

Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak are wating for them in C2. The third rescue team together with a group of Sherpas, shall be on their way back down or already in BC.

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Iņaki Ochoa - a climbing ace - lost on Annapurna by The Web Team

In spite of loads of snow and fighting exhaustion above C3. Don and his fellow rescuers were pressing on to Inaki and Ueli when the sad news reached them.

Emotionally distraught Don called his Support Team: "...He died! He died!... I can't believe it! He died!..." Then Don burst into tears and wept! Moments later as he tried to compose himself he exclaimed: "I've gotta go now. We have to get to Ueli. He needs our help!"

(MountEverest.net/Madrid) In spite off all efforts, Iñaki couldn't make it. Further pulmonary complications had worsened up his state, until he passed away at 12.30 pm, local time. Ueli Steck, the Swiss high altitude mountaineer, was with the sick Spaniard, trying to reanimate him until the end.

Don's heartfelt thoughts and prayers and sympathy goes out to Iñaki's family as well as to his home team, Horia Colibasanu (Iñaki's climbing mate) and all those who have supported and closely followed the extraordinary 8000 m career of Iñaki - a climbing ace!

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Three climbers at 6500 - "Denis, Don and...!" by The Web Team

(9:30 AM – Nepal Time) Lena from RussianClimb reported: "I've just talked with Serguey Bogomolov. I heared him very clearly. He and Robert, the Polish medical doctor, are in C2. "Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2. Other rescuers are going up to C2." Serguey sees three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. "Alexey decided to join the rescuers, and to help bring oxygen bottles to C3." In that moment Denis turned on his radio. I listened in: "Hello, Serguey…! We're OK, but very tired... very heavy snow... I think, we'll reach C3 in 2-3 hours..." I listened as Denis breathed very hard... Bolotov is incredible!”

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Determined to try for Camp 4 by The Web Team
(4:30 AM - Nepal Time) Don called to report: "We arrived at Camp 2 at around 2 AM. After taking a couple of hours to rest and re-hydrate we are now preparing to head up the wall to C3." Sounding tired he emphasized "We are determined to try for camp 4 in the next push."
Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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