Dispatches - May 2008

I�aki Ochoa de Olza's family expresses gratitude

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Fri, 23 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

It is about impossible to personally express our gratitude to all those who helped us at overcoming our pain of loosing Iñaki, we would like to tell that through the words of so many cheer messages, through the vital cooperation and the work developed along those intense days of personal efforts at fighting his deadly disappearing, have been an important medicine to sooth our pain.

The disappearance of someone as healthy and stable, so bright and joyful as Iñ [...]

Safely in base camp and possibly flying out

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Fri, 23 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(8:37 PM Nepal time) Don, Denis, Ueli, Serguey and Dr. Robert are safely in base camp. Don indicated that it was a long, crazy decent.

Four Sherpas voluntarily have remained in C2. They are Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Mr. Wangchu Sherpa, Chhiring Finjo Sherpa. Tomorrow morning they will descend with the medical supplies and remaining gear.

Inaki's Support team emphasized "We are still here and will be until everybody is safely evac [...]

Tired and relieved to be off the wall

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Fri, 23 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

( 11:15am Nepal time) “Denis and I met Ueli descending the ropes on the face of the Wall. Ueli is fine. We had a couple of close calls with avalanches. Everything was OK because we were on the ropes. The weather is still poor with low light and low visibility. We're tired. I'm relieved to be at the bottom of the wall. We're heading down to C2. Serguey, Dr. Robert and a number of Sherpas are waiting for us. We'll reach them in about 15 minutes once we’ve [...]

Don and Denis head up towards C4 to meet Ueli who is descending

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Fri, 23 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(7:40 am Nepal Time) My batteries are running lo, so I’ll keep this short: “The weather is terrible. Visibility is poor and there are many avalanches. Ueli left Camp 4 this morning - he is somewhere between Camp 4 and Camp 3. Denis and I are heading up to meet him. We hope to be down in Camp 2 by this evening.”

What next?

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Thu, 22 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

Priorities turn to those who are on the mountain. Weather conditions are described as rather rough. Snow is falling on the upper sections. In addition to excessive snow, the south face of Annapurna is wrapped in a thick fog, and visibility is poor.

Don and Denis have retreated to C3, where they will await Ueli's descent in the morning.

Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak are wating for them in C2. The third rescue team together with [...]

I�aki Ochoa - a climbing ace - lost on Annapurna

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Thu, 22 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

In spite of loads of snow and fighting exhaustion above C3. Don and his fellow rescuers were pressing on to Inaki and Ueli when the sad news reached them.

Emotionally distraught Don called his Support Team: "...He died! He died!... I can't believe it! He died!..." Then Don burst into tears and wept! Moments later as he tried to compose himself he exclaimed: [...]

Three climbers at 6500 - "Denis, Don and...!"

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Thu, 22 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(9:30 AM – Nepal Time) Lena from RussianClimb reported: "I've just talked with Serguey Bogomolov. I heared him very clearly. He and Robert, the Polish medical doctor, are in C2. "Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2. Other rescuers are going up to C2." Serguey sees three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. "Alexey decided to join the rescuers, and to help bring oxygen bottles to C3." In that moment Denis turned on his radio.&n [...]

Determined to try for Camp 4

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Thu, 22 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(4:30 AM - Nepal Time) Don called to report: "We arrived at Camp 2 at around 2 AM. After taking a couple of hours to rest and re-hydrate we are now preparing to head up the wall to C3." Sounding tired he emphasized "We are determined to try for camp 4 in the next push."

Don and Denis Urubko are on the mountain

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Wed, 21 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

Pablo Ochoa de Olza reports "Don and Denis are between C1 and C2, going up like rockets and will reach Inaki sometime in the next 24 hours." They are climbing with a Nepalese Sherpa, carrying O2 for Inaki and additional high altitude gear for Ueli. They spent 8 hours rapidly gaining elevation in deep snow that hampered their ascent. They hope to reach Inaki and Ueli tomorrow.

Kaldo Aldaz the cheif coordinator of the rescue efforts soberly commented: [...]

Swiss climbers reach Horia and Inaki

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Wed, 21 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

Horia who has risked his life and health for his friend and climbing partner Inaki, is now safe at Camp 3 together with Swiss climber Simon. Although not being in great condition because of being at high altitude for so long he as managed to get down to C3 alone. Tomorrow Horia and Simon descend to Base Camp. Alexey who is either at C3 or C2 should also reach Base camp.

Inaki is sleeping quietly at 7400m. The Swiss climber Ueli is with him, keeping him ali [...]

Weather gounds Helicopter in Chomrong for 2nd day

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Wed, 21 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(7:08 AM Nepal Time) Don together with Denis Urubko and Serguey Bogomolov continue for a second day to be grounded in Chomrong, a town 6-7 hours away from Base Camp on foot. This back-up rescue team led by Serguey is bringing a complete medical kit and supplementary O2. When the weather is more favorable its hoped that Don and Denis will be airlifted as high as possible on the mountain. Its uncertain if Serguey will assist in this aspect of the rescue as he is apparently recovering from frost [...]

Both I�aki and Alexey are alive

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Tue, 20 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

We are glad to report that the two Swiss climbers forming an advance rescue team have made contact with Horia by radio. Xplorersweb reports "both Iñaki and Alexey are alive - Inaki is concious but unable to walk and remains in C4. The Russian, Alexey Bolotov whose state is unclear is reportedly on his way down to C3 earlier today." The Swiss rescuers who have been held up at C3 due to bad weather will try to reach C4 tomorrow.

Don headed to Annapurna base camp

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Tue, 20 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(10:50 AM - Nepal time) Through Don's urging, his support team in the USA has been in contact with numerous individuals in an attempt to determine the nature of the response and the extent of the rescue effort on behalf of Inaki, Horia and Alexi.

The following were spoken with by phone: Inaki's family in Spain, the Ochoa family's coordinator of the rescue effort, and Ueli Steck's secretary in Switzerland. In addition, numerous e-mails were exchanged with these con [...]

A serious situation near Annapurna's Summit demands a response

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Mon, 19 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(8:15 AM - Nepal Time) While in Pokhara, some two days hike from Annapurna’s base camp, Don has learned from various sources of the serious situation that has occurred near the summit of Annapurna 1.

“Iñaki and Horia aborted their summit push up Annapurna's south face 100m shy of the top. While climbing they endured severe cold and found the traverse between the east and main summit to be more dangerous and exposed than they had expected. During 16 h [...]

A well deserved soak

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Thu, 15 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(12:25 AM - Nepal Time) Talking from Bamboo en route to Jinhu Danda where natural hot springs await, "I have left Base Camp. Dan is a day behind me. We'll meet for a little R& R in Jinhu. I'm looking forward to the change from the snow and cold to a well deserved soak." Don will then travel on to Katmandu via Pokhara.

Don has about 12 days before another climbing expedition begins. Wait for more details to be posted.

Best wishes (Satellite Phone Dispatch)

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Wed, 14 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(9:05 PM - Nepal Time) “While descending, mid-way between Camp 2 and Camp 1, we crossed the paths of Inaki and Horia who had teamed up with Alexei Bolotov. Alexi is the Russian climber that I so enjoyed climbing the South Face with. Just a week earlier he had reached the top of Annapurna East.

As we parted company - Inaki and co. headed up, Dan and I heading down - I expressed my best wishes to the three of them; for their ascent, [...]

Here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Wed, 14 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(6:45 AM - Nepal Time) While sitting at Camp 2 and looking toward the South Face, Don expressed "The mountain before me looms even bigger than before. In spite of being up for the challenge as well as feeling physically strong, the probability of me solo summiting this route is very low. The possibility for success is even lower under the current blanket of fresh heavy snow. Taking this into consideration, here ends my 2008 Annapurna Expedition! Let's just pray that Dan [...]

Sitting Tight At Camp 2 (Satellite Phone Dispatch)

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Mon, 12 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(8:50 AM - Nepal Time) A perfectly still night spent at Camp 2 was punctuated by roars of avalanches. As for yesterday: The going was a little tough in poor conditions. Very soft snow on the ground with heavy loads made for slow progress. We arrived at camp around 1 pm. Again, I felt strong and thankful that I'm already acclimatized for a higher altitude. Our packs are beefed up as we need more than a weeks worth of supplies. The plan is Dan would hold the fo [...]

Settling in at Camp 1 (Satellite Phone Dispatch)

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Sun, 11 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

(9:08 PM - Nepal Time) Dan & I are at Camp 1. The last of the Russian team passed us on their way down. They are tired but in good spirits. Climbing was done in overcast conditions with light snow. There has been no wind. It appears as though a light system has stalled over us. Earlier we enjoyed dinner. Presently we're boiling water before turning in for the night. Tomorrow we continue to Camp 2.

A Less Than Favorable Window (Dispatch: Don's Support Team)

tommy.klinefelter@gmail.com — Tue, 06 May 2008 20:00:00 +0100

Don was glad to report that after his climb with the Russians he had acclimatized and was now back in sync with his partners, Inaki and Horia. After a couple of days rest in Base Camp they once again began climbing together. They set out on May 3rd and eventually arrived in Camp 2 the following day. Daily clouds blanketed Annapurna 1 with frequent snow showers and moderate winds. Don believed the weather was deteriorating and the accumulating snowfall would make for difficult climbing, especiall [...]