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THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)
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Untagged  22 May 2008 2:00 AM
Don and Denis Urubko are on the mountain by The Web Team

Pablo Ochoa de Olza reports "Don and Denis are between C1 and C2, going up like rockets and will reach Inaki sometime in the next 24 hours." They are climbing with a Nepalese Sherpa, carrying O2 for Inaki and additional high altitude gear for Ueli. They spent 8 hours rapidly gaining elevation in deep snow that hampered their ascent. They hope to reach Inaki and Ueli tomorrow.

 

Kaldo Aldaz the cheif coordinator of the rescue efforts soberly commented: "They (Don and Denis together with Ueli) would not be enough to bring Inaki down.  The rescue effort will need as many as possible to get as high as possible and as fast as possible."

 

Tomorrow the weather forecast is perfect, especially in the morning. 06:00 Nepal time or earlier, a third rescue team should arrive on the mountain. They comprise 1 Polish Doctor, 5 Nepalese who are climbing Sherpas, and 2 Romanian climbers. With them they have a pressure bag, O2 and additional medicines for all. They will fly to C1 or C2 weather permitting.

Untagged  22 May 2008 2:00 AM
Swiss climbers reach Horia and Inaki by The Web Team

Horia who has risked his life and health for his friend and climbing partner Inaki, is now safe at Camp 3 together with Swiss climber Simon. Although not being in great condition because of being at high altitude for so long he as managed to get down to C3 alone. Tomorrow Horia and Simon descend to Base Camp. Alexey who is either at C3 or C2 should also reach Base camp.

 

Inaki is sleeping quietly at 7400m. The Swiss climber Ueli is with him, keeping him alive, giving him Dexa and other medical assistance. Inaki's health condition is static although his breathing is becoming ashmatic. Inaki is going to need O2 quickly. Time is vital. He can drink but can not walk neither can he talk. Ueli is awaiting Don and Dennis Urbuko's arrival with O2 and other medical supplies.
Untagged  22 May 2008 2:00 AM
Weather gounds Helicopter in Chomrong for 2nd day by The Web Team

(7:08 AM Nepal Time) Don together with Denis Urubko and Serguey Bogomolov continue for a second day to be grounded in Chomrong, a town 6-7 hours away from Base Camp on foot. This back-up rescue team led by Serguey is bringing a complete medical kit and supplementary O2. When the weather is more favorable its hoped that Don and Denis will be airlifted as high as possible on the mountain. Its uncertain if Serguey will assist in this aspect of the rescue as he is apparently recovering from frostbite sustained on Annapurna 10 days ago.

Untagged  21 May 2008 2:00 AM
Both Iņaki and Alexey are alive by The Web Team
We are glad to report that the two Swiss climbers forming an advance rescue team have made contact with Horia by radio. Xplorersweb reports "both Iñaki and Alexey are alive - Inaki is concious but unable to walk and remains in C4. The Russian, Alexey Bolotov whose state is unclear is reportedly on his way down to C3 earlier today." The Swiss rescuers who have been held up at C3 due to bad weather will try to reach C4 tomorrow.
Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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