Follow Don on Facebook! Don's Backcountry.com Profile

THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)
Don Bowie's Blog
Description:
A short description about your blog

Untagged  30 Jun 2010 12:00 AM
Gasherbrum Base Camp - For the moment! by Don Bowie

June 27th, 2010

Travel in Pakistan has been difficult this year with poor weather beating up the roads and delaying flights into Skardu. Once again we were unable to fly up north and were forced to endure the grueling 24 hour bus ride up the Karakoram Highway - this time in non-stop fashion. I woke up in Skardu with my right cheek sporting an impressive macramé waffle pattern, courtesy the dirty window curtain I drooled on during the final 8 hours of the trip. Apparently, I can still manage to sleep practically anywhere required...

Alexey packs for Camp 1<i> Photo Don Bowie</i>   Donald packs for Camp1<i> Photo Don Bowie</i>

We'll depart base camp at 4am, so instead of a long text dispatch, I'll let a few photos do the talking for now. More to follow... Don

Downtown Skardu, Pakistan<i> Photo Don Bowie</i>  Don high above Sadpara on an acclimatization trek<i> <i>Photo Don Bowie</i></i> Alexey laces up the Timberlands for another long day trekking to base camp<i><i> Photo Don Bowie</i></i> Base Camp<i> <i>Photo Don Bowie</i></i>

Click on pictures to enlarge

Untagged  16 Mar 2010 12:00 AM
Don's Upcoming Events by Don Bowie
 (McMenamins Theater, Portland OR, Jan 2010)
 
 
Don's Upcoming presentations are scheduled. All shows are open to the public!
 

April 6- University of Montana, Missoula MT

North Underground Lecture Hall, 7pm

 -

April 7-  Gonzaga University, Spokane WA

Jepson Center Wolff Auditorium, 7pm

 -

April 8- Idaho Mountain Touring , Boise ID

Idaho Mountain Touring Store , 7pm

 -

April  13- Helena Middle School, Helena MT

Helena Middle School Theatre, 7pm

 -

April 14- Montana Mountaineering Association, Bozeman MT (TBA)

 -

April 15- Billings MT,  (TBA)

 

 Come see K2...then stare at livestock.


Untagged  8 Nov 2009 12:00 AM
THANKS! (Upcoming Events) by Don Bowie

A sincere thanks to all of you who have followed along with me on the 2009 Gasherbrum III Expedition.

As reported form Pakistan, we did not summit, but managed to establish a route up the lower west face of GIII. We then traversed back into the cwm to 7300meters before Bruce Normand came down with a debilitating altitude illness. When his blood-oxygen saturation dropped to below 40%, things got a little dicey. Despite zero visibility and many harrowing rappels down the center of the icefall, we all managed to make it back to our high camp. As I reported in my last dispatch, Bruce is a very strong guy - and he stuck it out despite his severely weakened state. We now look back to that time with typical climber nonchalantness - a resident (and convenient) characteristic of those who continue to push the limits of higher exploration.

A few days after getting back to base camp, we planned to return to Camp 2 to retrieve our tents and gear. Before our departure I managed to contract some flu-like sickness, so my partners headed up without me. A clear weather window enticed the boys to make another summit shot, and despite being very tired from our prior attempt they made it back up to our high point of 7300meters. Look up the word "stubbornness" in the dictionary to see images from this attempt. Yet, despite sunny days and a promising forecast, the fatigue of altitude forced them back down; a strong effort in my book.

A few days later we left base camp for home. (FYI- for security reasons I don't report our travel progress in Pakistan.)

A special thanks to everyone for your thoughts, prayers, and support for us during those difficult days on the mountain. Also, a special thanks to my expedition partners: Bruce Normand, Guy McKinnon and Billy Pierson for their commitment, drive, and teamwork. Spirit fingers everybody. (Spirit fingers: See video if you don't get that---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDbnkfHtD_E

Next on the agenda for me is a K2 Multimedia Presentation speaking tour - coming to a theater near you. As new dates and specific locations are confirmed they will be added to the events calendar on this website (click on "events" on top tool bar). Here's a quick synopsis of dates and places:

Sept 15-Oct 6th  Northern Europe.
Oct 6- Oct 31st  Midwest USA
Nov 10th-Dec1st  Western Canada

If you are in these regions and interested in booking this presentation at your school, club, charity event, corporation, baby shower, etc., please contact Jill at info@calpinist.com.

Hope to see you out there!

Don

Untagged  18 Sep 2009 12:00 AM
Dispatch 8: Part 3 of 3: Trouble on the Mountain by Don Bowie
(Webteam: This is the 3rd and final part of Dispatch 8. See previous 2 parts for the full story.) 

...A  few rappels later I found myself at a small icy stance with Billy. We both looked at each other and with various (not so creative) language and exclaimed how crazy it was that we were descending smack dab in the middle of the icefall.

Don rests on ice tools while Bruce rappels down to his stance in the icefall <em>Photo Don Bowie</em>

 

As we waited for Bruce to come down the rope, I stared above at the thousands of tons of overhanging and teetering loose blocks of ice above us. I could not conceive spending the entire rest of the day wandering around under such a threat, yet I knew that we would have to do just that. At these moments, I try to humor myself by recalling old Kung-Fu movies, when the grey-bearded master tells the student to "...think like...er...invisible man."

 

Billy looks on as Bruce rests at a rappel anchor in the middle of the icefall <em>Photo Don Bowie</em>

The last two rappels deposited the four of us in a narrow chute between ice serac walls. At the bottom of the chute we stood among huge chunks of ice and avalanche debris. After a quick rest we roped up again and I lead down the lower chute, trending left toward the bottom of the GIII west face. After punching through into a few black crevasses, I finally managed to find a safe way over to the face proper - albeit, under a whole new line of different seracs. Fresh snow and avalanche debris covered the lower slopes, and the four of us down climbed toward the bottom of the face roped together.

Guy negotiates the mixed traverse under huge hanging ice seracs <em>Photo Don Bowie</em>

 

 Just as I managed to punch through the bergshrund, Guy yelled, "Avalanche coming!". I looked up to see a white powder cloud spilling over the seracs above and hoped to myself that the slide would be no deeper than my head and shoulders - since that was the only part of me that was sticking out of the bergshrund hole.

 

Guy in the final rappel in the heart of the icefall <em>Photo Don Bowie</em>

A few hours later the four of us finally climbed across of the last of the avalanche debris and under the protection of the serac ice chunk hiding our Camp 2 tent. I shook everyone's hand and encouraged them for such a great effort - except for Bruce who was busy vomiting. (I encouraged him too. Just after.) It was an excellent effort by all and I felt very proud and thankful to be back in Camp 2. An hour or two later, as we lay brewing up in our sleeping bags, I measured Bruce's sats: 73%.

 

And there is one more twist:

The following day we roped up and descended down the glacier to G2 Camp 1. Upon arrival we noticed that the entire top of one of our VE25 tents had been ripped off, the fabric blowing in the wind. At first we suspected sabotage; that someone had torn or cut up one of our tents. I walked to a nearby Spanish member tent and asked an occupant if he had seen anything. I don't speak fluent Spanish, but did understand the phrase, "Grande boom". It appeared that one of the cheap Korean gas stove canisters had exploded in the tent only one hour after we left Camp 1 on July 7th. We did find various canister shrapnel around the tent, but the main canister body was long gone. I trust it landed somewhere on the glacier not too far from the Indian border. I haven't checked the news recently, but are there any recent border tensions between Pakistan and India?

Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

Don's Upcoming Events

See Don's profile and more:

Image

 

Gear Expert's Pick

The North Face Caroline Down Coat - Women's

Its insultingly cold outside, but you dont want to dress in an Everest-style cover-all just to stay warm. The North Face Womens Caroline Down Coat wraps from your neck to your knees in warm, 600-fill goose down, and adds a flattering waist-belt to boot.

Check it
Backcountry.com