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THIS SUMMER Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) return to the the Gasherbrum mountain range in Baltoro, Pakistan. The two alpinists will decide on particular objectives based on specific conditions in the region, and have secured a few seperate permits to keep their options open. Of the 6 main peaks comprising the Gasherbrum massive, 4 are of interest to Don and Alexey:


GASHERBRUM I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

GASHERBRUM II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Pakistan occupied Kashmir - China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.

GASHERBRUM III, at 7952m (26,088ft), and GASHERBRUM IV, at 7925m (26,000ft) are respectively the world's 15th- and 17th-highest peaks. Completely overlooked in the rush to the fourteen 8000m peaks, G3 has had only 2 ascents, both by the same route, which put 7 people on its summit; G4 is rather better known for its singular elegance and for its extreme difficulty, as a result of which its true summit has still seen only 9 pairs of feet (on 4 expeditions between 1958 and 1997)

Don Bowie (Canada) Alexey Bolotov (Russia)
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Untagged  17 Jul 2010 12:00 AM
Unbelievable...a "blue bird day" for summiting.....! by Webteam

July 17, 2010

Don’s Home Team Reports:

Don called at 2:45 pm PKT to tell us that even though it was a “blue bird” day for summiting – no wind, no clouds, no precipitation -  he and Alexey could not reach the top. They were 100m from the summit ridge, could see it, but could not get there; the snow was chest deep. After many exhausting attempts of pushing the limits, they could not wade through it to reach their goal. Disappointed, they have returned to Camp 3. After a short  rest, they will head back down to base camp.

Untagged  15 Jul 2010 12:00 AM
"Heading Up on G1" by Webteam

July 15, 2010

Don’s Home Team Reports:

Don called at 9:30 pm PKT to report that he and Alexey were in Camp 2. They are doing well and have enough Pringles to sustain them for the rest of the climb. They will rest tonight in Camp 2 and then head up in the morning. Check Don's website within the next 48 hours for a further update. 

Untagged  10 Jul 2010 12:00 AM
Phone Dispatch from C3 by Webteam

July 10, 2010

Phone Dispatch from C3

We got up early the morning of the 10th. With this being our first time at C3, we knew that we were not super acclimatized and thought we would just go for it and see how high we could get. Visability was clear. The winds picked up and got reasonably high. Snow conditions were mixed - bullet hard snow and ice/very soft slab. We felt good, yet at times it was a little hard having gone up so fast. We reached 7500m. At this altitude we decided this was good acclimatization prep, and it was time to head down to C3. We will spend the night here at 7000m and then head down in the morning to Base Camp to rest and wait for another weather window opportunity.

 

Untagged  8 Jul 2010 12:00 AM
Heading up to Camp 3 on Gasherbrum I by Webteam

July 8, 2010, 10 pm PKT

Phone Dispatch from Don:

"Alexey and I are currently at C2. We climbed through a fair amount of snow in the ice field. We took it slow and didn't encounter any problems with the crevasses. Planning to head up to C3(7000m) in the morning."

Be notified when news or dispatches are posted to this site: send an email to DonDispatches@gmail.com

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