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BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008

THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".

THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years.
Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More...
Category >> Annapurna 2008

Untagged  24 May 2008 2:00 AM
Don and Denis head up towards C4 to meet Ueli who is descending by The Web Team
(7:40 am Nepal Time) My batteries are running lo, so I’ll keep this short: “The weather is terrible. Visibility is poor and there are many avalanches. Ueli left Camp 4 this morning - he is somewhere between Camp 4 and Camp 3. Denis and I are heading up to meet him. We hope to be down in Camp 2 by this evening.”
Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
What next? by The Web Team
Priorities turn to those who are on the mountain. Weather conditions are described as rather rough. Snow is falling on the upper sections. In addition to excessive snow, the south face of Annapurna is wrapped in a thick fog, and visibility is poor.

 

Don and Denis have retreated to C3, where they will await Ueli's descent in the morning.

 

Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak are wating for them in C2. The third rescue team together with a group of Sherpas, shall be on their way back down or already in BC.

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Iņaki Ochoa - a climbing ace - lost on Annapurna by The Web Team

In spite of loads of snow and fighting exhaustion above C3. Don and his fellow rescuers were pressing on to Inaki and Ueli when the sad news reached them.

Emotionally distraught Don called his Support Team: "...He died! He died!... I can't believe it! He died!..." Then Don burst into tears and wept! Moments later as he tried to compose himself he exclaimed: "I've gotta go now. We have to get to Ueli. He needs our help!"

(MountEverest.net/Madrid) In spite off all efforts, Iñaki couldn't make it. Further pulmonary complications had worsened up his state, until he passed away at 12.30 pm, local time. Ueli Steck, the Swiss high altitude mountaineer, was with the sick Spaniard, trying to reanimate him until the end.

Don's heartfelt thoughts and prayers and sympathy goes out to Iñaki's family as well as to his home team, Horia Colibasanu (Iñaki's climbing mate) and all those who have supported and closely followed the extraordinary 8000 m career of Iñaki - a climbing ace!

Untagged  23 May 2008 2:00 AM
Three climbers at 6500 - "Denis, Don and...!" by The Web Team

(9:30 AM – Nepal Time) Lena from RussianClimb reported: "I've just talked with Serguey Bogomolov. I heared him very clearly. He and Robert, the Polish medical doctor, are in C2. "Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2. Other rescuers are going up to C2." Serguey sees three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. "Alexey decided to join the rescuers, and to help bring oxygen bottles to C3." In that moment Denis turned on his radio. I listened in: "Hello, Serguey…! We're OK, but very tired... very heavy snow... I think, we'll reach C3 in 2-3 hours..." I listened as Denis breathed very hard... Bolotov is incredible!”

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