| Untagged | 21 May 2008 2:00 AM |
| Both Iņaki and Alexey are alive by The Web Team | |
BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008
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| THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years. | ||||
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| Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... | 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... | Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More... | ||
| Untagged | 21 May 2008 2:00 AM |
| Don headed to Annapurna base camp by The Web Team | |
The following were spoken with by phone: Inaki's family in Spain, the Ochoa family's coordinator of the rescue effort, and Ueli Steck's secretary in Switzerland. In addition, numerous e-mails were exchanged with these contacts as well as with a representative from Russianclimb.
With the wholehearted cooperation of these people across the globe, we are glad to report that the following was accomplished: Don who is in Pokhara has made contact with Serguey Bogomolov in Katmandu. We learned that his fellow Russian climbing mates have already departed Nepal. Serguey plans to charter a helicopter to Annapurna base camp. Accompanying him is Denis Urubko, a veteran of 8000m peaks. On the way they intend to collect Don. The threesome will join the Swiss climbers Ueli Steck and Simon who may have already ascended to Camp 3 in an effort to reach Inaki and Horia.
Please continue to pray for this collective effort to reach Inaki and Horia as well as to determine the whereabouts of Alexi. Pray to for the Swiss climbers ascent and the rescue team that is currently being formed.
(Edited at 12:48 PM Nepal Time) Don has been picked up by Serguey and Denis en route to Annapurna Base Camp. There are concerns about not being able to land due to poor visibility caused by cloud cover.
(Edited at 1:40 PM Nepal Time) The helicopter has been grounded in Chomrong due to a blanket of clouds. This town is a 6-7 hour hike to Base Camp. Weather permitting Don expect to fly out first thing in the morning.
| Untagged | 20 May 2008 2:00 AM |
| A serious situation near Annapurna's Summit demands a response by The Web Team | |
(8:15 AM - Nepal Time) While in Pokhara, some two days hike from Annapurna’s base camp, Don has learned from various sources of the serious situation that has occurred near the summit of Annapurna 1.
“Iñaki and Horia aborted their summit push up Annapurna's south face 100m shy of the top. While climbing they endured severe cold and found the traverse between the east and main summit to be more dangerous and exposed than they had expected. During 16 hours of non-stop climbing Inaki suffered minor frost bite on one or both of his hands. Inaki and Horia eventually decided to abort their summit bid due to concerns about this condition possibly worsening. Another factor was the lack of sufficient rope needed to fix some difficult sections that lay ahead of them. Horia and Inaki retreated down to around 7400m where Inaki’s condition suddenly deteriorated. Violent bursts of vomiting and coughing apparently left him almost unconscious. The Russian Alexei Bolotov had during their descent had proceeded further up attempting to summit. No details about his progress have been reported. The climbers have apparently run out of batteries on their sat-phones. An international response to Inaki’s situation is currently underway.”
Don has expressed his grave concern for the well being of Inaki, Horia and Alex. He is praying for the three climbers and their families. Don e-mailed: “I am in Pokhara now but I can climb back up to base camp and be there the day after tomorrow. I don't have much information on Inaki’s current condition. It is important for us to talk with his family members or his support team and inquire if they need me to help…I am willing to climb back as fast as I can if this is necessary. I can be at Camp 1 in 2 days, maybe higher...”
Please pray with Don for Inaki, Horia and Alex as well as for their families. Pray to for those coordinating and involved in a rescue operation should that be needed.
| Untagged | 16 May 2008 2:00 AM |
| A well deserved soak by The Web Team | |
(12:25 AM - Nepal Time) Talking from Bamboo en route to Jinhu Danda where natural hot springs await, "I have left Base Camp. Dan is a day behind me. We'll meet for a little R& R in Jinhu. I'm looking forward to the change from the snow and cold to a well deserved soak." Don will then travel on to Katmandu via Pokhara.
Don has about 12 days before another climbing expedition begins. Wait for more details to be posted.









