| Untagged | 23 Apr 2008 3:49 AM |
| Phone dispatch by Don Bowie | |
Right now, I can see Inaki and Horia climbing on Tomaz Humar's route. They are more than 1400 metres above me, abut 6400 metres, on the wall. I wish I were with them!!
There is a bit of a problem for me in moving forward tomorrow if Dan decides not to go with me. The Russians have been fixing ropes on the Polish route. Inaki, Horia, and I do not want to climb the Polish route. The problem is that I can't go through the glacier by myself. And, if Dan doesn't want to go, I will have to wait for the Russians and go their route. Worst case scenario is that, tomorrow, I will go with them to camp 2 and not meet up with Inaki and Horia. Camp 2 is about 6000 metres. I will stay there for 2-3 days and climb up further and maybe help the Russians fix ropes, so that I can acclimatize at a higher altitude, then we will all come back down to base camp.
Our plan right now is to stay in base camp for 4-5 days and then wait for a weather window. When that happens we will make our bid for the summit. We do not plan to fix ropes on our way up to the summit. Since we have already established camp 1 and 2, we will stop at both for a rest along the way.We will carry camp 3 with us and set it up alpine style when we necessary. The path that we are climbing looks steep, but once you get on it it really is not that steep. It is only about a 45 or 50 degree angle. So all seems to be going well!!!
Inaki, Horia, and I are still having "fun" and we seem to really enjoy one another's company. Good companionship and light-heartedness really makes the climb so much more enjoyable and relaxing and it especially helps when the three of you end up in a tent together.
I will try to send another dispatch when I get back to base camp. I am still having problems with my Thuraya satellite phone....so I hope that will happen. Thank you for all your support and emails...your encouragement is much appreciated.
Don.









