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BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008

THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".

THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years.
Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More...
"So Far, So Good!"

 In fear of ruining the streak, I'll say it anyway: So far, so good.
 
My Polish companions have also adopted this slogan as we negotiate Pakistani expedition logistics in rather uncharacteristically smooth fashion. I won't jinx our good fortune with a justification caveat that all manner of potential chaos could be just around the corner...wait, I think I just did.
 
Examples:
 
My flight to Chicago was delayed due to weather. No bother. Both my bags and myself somehow made the 10 minute walk to my London departure gate, only to arrive as the doors swung shut. My flight was delayed getting into London. No bother. We landed a few hours late, but I easily made my Islamabad flight, again with luggage in tow. My flight was 2 hours delayed landing in Islamabad due to dense fog over the airport. No bother. The folks from ATP were waiting at immigration (don't ask how) with my luggage already loaded on a cart. The following day, we returned to the airport in hopes to catch the elusive flight to Skardu. No bother. In 4 years of trying, the flight actually departed the airport, sparing us the desperate swerve-and-curve up the Karakoram Highway. Upon arrival in Skardu, my cargo from the States and from Kathmandu had not yet arrived. No bother. The mother lode showed up the following morning, with nary a piece missing. In short, I am counting my blessings, for they are many...
 
The familiar sights, sounds, and smells of Skardu are slightly different in the cold winter air. The mountains surrounding the town seem much larger laden with fresh blankets of snow. Our hotel kitchen serves THE best food I have eaten in Pakistan, and at every meal we stuff ourselves, trying to keep on as much extra weight as possible before the spin-cycle of winter on the Baltoro burglarizes our reserves.
 
We've spent the last few days acclimatizing up the Sadpara valley, climbing the slopes above the serene, emerald-green Sadpara Lake. As we await the weather window for the helicopter flight into Broad Peak base camp, we sort the last of our gear and discuss our plans. The team feels cohesive, lighthearted, and prepared, ready to take on the frigid Broad beast together. Artur, Robert, and myself will be joined by 5 Pakistanis: Didar (cook-extraordinaire and base camp manager from my 2007 K2 expedition), and climbers Quadrat, Amin, Ali, and Taqi. Together we form the unlikely brotherhood of the 2008 Broad Peak Winter Expedition.

 
Waiting to fly to Skardu

 
Ministry of Tourism Meeting with Nanga Parbat Expedition

 
Sunrise over Afghanistan

 
Don in Skardu

 
Junk Show on Tour

 
Artur, Quadrat, Amin, and Ali

 
Climbing above Sadpara Lake