BROAD PEAK WINTER 2008
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| THE GEOGRAPHY: Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". THE HISTORY: In spite of several attempts, none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. On Broad Peak in Particular, Italian Simone Moro and Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali have been rejected by loads of snow, bitter cold and bad conditions for the past two years. |
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| Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. More... | 2008 marks Don Bowie's 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. More... | Artur Hajzer has summited five eight-thousanders: three of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna. More... | ||
| Iņaki Ochoa - a climbing ace - lost on Annapurna |
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Emotionally distraught Don called his Support Team: "...He died! He died!... I can't believe it! He died!..." Then Don burst into tears and wept! Moments later as he tried to compose himself he exclaimed: "I've gotta go now. We have to get to Ueli. He needs our help!" (MountEverest.net/Madrid) In spite off all efforts, Iñaki couldn't make it. Further pulmonary complications had worsened up his state, until he passed away at 12.30 pm, local time. Ueli Steck, the Swiss high altitude mountaineer, was with the sick Spaniard, trying to reanimate him until the end. Don's heartfelt thoughts and prayers and sympathy goes out to Iñaki's family as well as to his home team, Horia Colibasanu (Iñaki's climbing mate) and all those who have supported and closely followed the extraordinary 8000 m career of Iñaki - a climbing ace! |
In spite of loads of snow and fighting exhaustion above C3. Don and his fellow rescuers were pressing on to Inaki and Ueli when the sad news reached them.
